Style Suggestion: The Chambray Shirt

It’s been a while since it got truly cold in most parts of this country, but that doesn’t mean we don’t all need a reminder on the certain types of textures and fabrics that just work well in the winter. The key here is to continue to look for items with a rougher texture, things that just seem to blend nicely with stark, cold landscapes.

In fact, the desire to change things up in terms of outfits and texture can be quite tempting this time of year, but there’s something to be said about doing what works, time and again. Filling this gap is, surprisingly (or not) where something like a chambray shirt comes in. It’s been written about and suggested on this site a good number of times, but with good reason. On a personal level, a chambray shirt in the rotation (as pictured below) is becoming a frequently worn item because of its versatility — they exist in that perfect space where they can be dressed up or down.

J. Crew's chambray shirt. Nice texture for winter, without a doubt.

J. Crew’s chambray shirt — dressy with a workwear feel.

Notably, chambray shirts are the perfect antidote to a look that might be too dressed up. In some cases, a crisp white shirt worn under a more casual, rumpled cardigan might just look too stark. Or with a more casual patch-pocket blazer, for example, the white shirt just might stand out a bit too much, even if it’s a white OCBD. Enter the chambray shirt. In a lighter shade like blue (like the J. Crew option pictured), it works in just as many different outfits as a blue Oxford cloth button-down might work. (See option #1 here for a reminder). If you’ve got a v-neck sweater under a navy blazer, throw a lighter chambray shirt in there to flip the look on its head. Wear it on its own under that same blazer, too.

Heck, GQ is even a proponent of wearing it under a suit (a bolder move, but one that definitely works). The texture of the shirt is the key here — it’s marled and weathered, and it’s got a great workwear feel to it. More importantly, it’s a item that’s trendy yet most likely won’t die out anytime soon — it’s become, in some ways, the modern-day version of the OCBD, as it exists in an older dimension with a workwear vibe and yet is cut slim for current times. It can be worn under layers in the cold, and it’s the perfect type of shirt to pair with a thicker-weight tie. A wool tie (or a knit tie) has more going on texturally than a silk tie, so the combination just works well together. Underneath the odd vest or a heavier blazer, (as seen in the photo below), the chambray shirt falls right in line with a lot of different textures going on.

The base layer on the top here is a nice chambray shirt.

The base layer on the top here is a nice chambray shirt.

For what it’s worth, many (including J. Crew’s head of menswear) count the chambray shirt as an essential, a highly versatile item that lends class and a rugged feel to any outfit — two things highly difficult to do at the same time. If you’re into it, it’s also got a very old-time Americana feel to it in terms of style — details like the tab collar option on the J. Crew shirt and the front-button pockets lend itself to that. Look for one cut slim and in a lighter color, and it might even continue to be worn into the spring and summer months. That’s the definition of versatile style right there.

Style Suggestion: Christmas Time

If you’re anything like me, the last few days before Christmas are a bit of a scramble to finish wrapping gifts and getting everything set for two special days — Christmas Eve and Christmas. Ideally, since this time is most often spent with family, it’s good to not have to think too much about what to wear on those days. And it’s wise to not overdo it too much, either — but you should still dress to impress (although Christmas is one of those days where it’s OK to wear your pajamas all day). Let’s take it from the top with an outfit that could work on both Christmas Eve and Christmas.

The Sweater

Elbow-patch wool crew (Alternative: Fair isle crewneck sweater)

Different texture, and with elbow patches for variety.

Different texture, and with elbow patches for variety.

In most parts of the country this time of year, it’s pretty cold (including New Hampshire, where the Siblings With Style operation has gone mobile this week). That’s why a sweater will work more than sufficiently to stave off the chill. But, use some more variety here than with a standard v-neck sweater.

That’s why a donegal wool crew (the above option pictured is from Frank & Oak) does the job nicely. The wool’s texture is subtly different from a classic merino or wool sweater (note the flecks in the fabric), and the crew neck means this can be worn more casually atop a plain t-shirt. The elbow patches break up the outfit by adding another subtle textural difference, and that touch is certainly a modern take on an older classic. The same holds true for the fair isle crewneck alternative. The pattern is perfect for the holidays — it’s certainly ‘of-the-moment’, but it incorporates a cold-weather feel, too. And in slim new iterations from places like J. Crew and even Old Navy, the fair isle sweater fits the mold of a nice modern update. Additionally, because that fair isle pattern is louder, it can easily be dialed down by pairing it with the perfect pair of dark denim.

The Shirt

Chambray shirt

Workwear details and rough cold-weather texture.

Workwear details and rough cold-weather texture.

Assuming you stick with a nice wool crew, it’s wise to keep your shirt in the same casual area. That could mean as something as simple as a charcoal or grey t-shirt, but if you’re stepping out of the house to visit family or heading to a casual party, a collared shirt is probably the more polished way to go. It’s easy here to turn to a simple white or blue Oxford cloth button-down, but the slightly unique texture of the sweater calls for a slightly more unique shirt. Chambray is the ideal in-between medium —a step up from an OCBD in terms of visual interest, and able to be worn in fall and winter with equal ease — the rough, workwear-inspired roots of chambray are the answer to colder temps in the later parts of the year, including around Christmas.

The Pants

Slim chinos

Hawkings McGill chinos from Urban Outfitters.

Hawkings McGill chinos from Urban Outfitters.

Even though Christmas is a decidedly casual holiday when it’s spent at home, the day before and the day itself present a variety of potential style situations. If both days are spent at home, a lighter-washed, more casual denim, kept slim and with some distressing (yes, some) could be your ticket to casual style. But in both instances, slim chinos in a neutral color (as seen above) work perfectly.  Something in a darker fall or winter shade (like burnt orange or burgundy) could definitely work as well. In this instance, chinos allow you to be a bit more polished at home or just as ready to jump up and head out to a movie or dinner, a place where jeans might not go a long way.

The Shoes

‘Classy’ boots

A high-quality boot with years of history behind it.

A high-quality boot with years of history behind it.

As with much of the day, this is one holiday where not a lot might be required of you in terms of errands, chores or, well, much of anything involving leaving the house. But, if the day involves trekking through some snow, a sturdy pair of boots is the way to go when the weather turns frosty.  When you add a different component (like a slightly different color) outside of a standard wingtip or ‘work’ boot, the right pair of shoes can work across multiple seasons and situations. That’s where the Red Wing Beckman boots come in. The cherry shade of this particular pair is beautifully rich in color and extremely high-quality, if reviews and anecdotal history are any indication (46 out of 51 reviews on Amazon were 4 or 5 star ratings). That red cherry color means that the boot could feasibly be worn with either a black or brown leather belt — don’t worry about matching leathers, here. And the boot’s deep color falls in line with the elbow patches of the sweater and the rough texture of the chambray shirt — all subtly different touches from typical items.

The Rest

Camp socks and casual leather watch

Thick and warm socks to stand up to the heat.

Thick and warm socks to stand up to the heat.

Is $16.50 a lot for a pair of socks, like the J. Crew option as shown in the link? Definitely. But, if it’s particularly chilly where you live, a nice, thick pair of socks could see a lot of duty in the fall and winter, so it’s a slight investment in the grand scheme of things. That particular pair has some notes of blue and black that would play off other colors in the outfit, like the sweater, shirt and chinos. That’s a little touch that can go a long way in complementing an outfit, something any good pair of socks should accomplish. Because the outfit is casual overall, leave the stainless steel dive watch in the box this time, and reach for a cheap (yet still polished-looking) watch like a Timex. It’s a leather strap but still maintains a field-ready look, and again, don’t worry about matching leathers with the shoes here.

There you have it. Enjoy the Christmas season with family and friends, and do your best to look your best in the process. Merry Christmas, happy holidays and thanks for reading!

-Beau

Winter Style Suggestion: Seasonal Fabrics

A huge component of fashion and style is phasing seasonal pieces in and out of one’s wardrobe. What worked for you in the summer (a polo and chinos, perhaps) probably won’t work in colder temperatures, and the same can be said for cold-weather garb. We’ve been working our way toward winter in Michigan for a good while now (remember those wingtip boots? Now’s the perfect time to break them out), and with the first truly cold blast of cold weather comes another reminder about seasonally appropriate style. The great thing about so many fabrics that work in the fall is that … well, they work in the winter, too.

J. Crew's chambray shirt. Nice texture for winter, without a doubt.

J. Crew’s chambray shirt. Nice texture for winter, without a doubt.

One way to transition your wardrobe in small steps from fall to winter revolves around emphasizing chunkier, thicker textures and fabrics, namely in suiting, shirting and neckwear. Of course, layering is important, as well. A heavier fabric that can get great play in both fall and winter is denim — not just on your legs, though. Denim and chambray shirts can break up a typical shirt-and-sweater combo through a thicker weave and rougher texture. Even in the dead of winter, a light chambray shirt is still appropriate — the fabric is like a classic OCBD, but with slubbier texture. Both types of shirts pair well with knit ties or heavier pieces of neckwear, and variations on styling a chambray shirt with dark denim are often used to great effect across the #menswear world. An added benefit of working in rougher textures like chambray and denim is that shirts and other seasonal staples often come in neutral colors, so pairing them together is quite easy.

If you do have the opportunity to dress up on occasion, leave the ultra-shiny silk ties at home at least once or twice. The same fabrics in vogue in suiting for the winter are just as accessible in terms of neckwear — look no further than last month’s Frank and Oak Hunt Club crate for a great example of a heavier wool tie.  What’s more, switching to a heavier tie fabric ultimately makes sense with other textural changes — a wool tie and chambray shirt is a nearly foolproof combination because of the way those two items play off each other. Knit ties, while versatile and usable at any time during the year, are even more appropriate during fall and winter. Again, a knit tie swaps out the sheen of a typical silk tie for something more visually interesting — a thick weave. Because a knit is inherently more casual (square end, more texture, less shine), it can be paired with dark denim and a great pair of shoes quite easily. And if you find yourself in a business casual office this fall or winter, try out a combination like that on a ‘Casual Friday’ — it’s probably instantly more polished than other get-ups out there.

An example of how to tie it all together -- chambray shirt, knit tie & herringbone blazer. Don't forget those boots!

An example of how to tie it all together — chambray shirt, knit tie & herringbone blazer. Don’t forget those boots!

The key to completing an entire outfit (particularly in a business casual situation) is often a good blazer. A blazer can clean up lines in an outfit, emphasizing a man’s torso and shoulders; in the right size (and maybe with some tailoring), nearly anyone looks good. Now for the winter, a good cotton blazer can probably pull just as much duty as in the summer or spring. But leave the linen blazer in the closet for now, and if you do want to switch out fabrics, reach for … you guessed it — something with a thicker weave, like this herringbone number from J. Crew.  H&M also features a much cheaper option in a winter-appropriate fabric, but the tail could be a bit chopped (too short for the taller fellas).

When the cold weather strikes, transition your wardrobe as you would from any other season, rotating out pieces you don’t wear for pieces you will wear. Keep in mind that heavier textures add visual interest and depth to an outfit, and use neutral combinations like chambray and wool ties to pull together seasonally appropriate (and versatile) looks.