Style Suggestion: Back In Black

For guys, there are two pretty basic types of shoe colors — brown or black —and one essential rule …. don’t mix those two shades in an outfit (I.e. A deep black suit with brown shoes is a no-go). Maybe it’s because of the severity of black shoes, and their natural pairing with a black suit (which can often have an undertaker or funeral vibe to it), but black dress shoes have fallen out of favor in recent years, particularly in the #menswear blogosphere. Now for some, they’ve always been a staple, and rightfully so. The perfect black shoe (something like this number from Allen Edmonds) is sleek, with a clean, not clunky, toe box. (NOTE: While that Allen Edmonds shoe is investment-worthy, it’s pricey for most of us — try a black shoe from this list instead, perhaps). Black shoes are the perfect way to go tieless with a suit, too — they look lean and mean. Yet, something about black shoes has driven people away (including this writer, until early last summer).

Quite possibly the perfect black shoe. The Park Avenue by Allen Edmonds

Quite possibly the perfect black shoe. The Park Avenue by Allen Edmonds

Brown shoes, on the other hand, have blown up. Examples of ways to wear sharp brown shoes have been everywhere on places like Pinterest and Tumblr across the past five years or so, and the trend made its way from street style shots to everyday life. Even now, pairing brown shoes with a sharp navy (or grey) suit is a surefire, fail-safe combination. (Indeed, brown dress shoes or desert boots won’t fall out of favor for a long time). But black shoes in all forms are due their time in the spotlight, especially starting this spring and across the rest of the year. Namely, in many different variations — a loafer, a buck, a hybrid-type shoe — black is back.

They certainly are definitive guides on picking the right black shoe, and jargon when picking footwear in general can often get quite confusing, but the essential thing to keep in mind is this — when trying out an old favorite that’s quickly turning back into a trend, keep things simple.

Bond, James Bond. Nice example of how to wear black shoes.

Bond, James Bond. Nice example of how to wear black shoes.

We see a perfect example of how to style black shoes in the last James Bond movie (always an excellent place to turn for sartorial inspiration). He might be a movie character, but the one thing about Bond is that, eight or nine times out of ten, he kills it … from a style perspective, too. In shots from the movie, we see Bond wear three different types of black shoes — an open-laced chukka-style boot (perfect for cavorting around Turkey on a motorbike), a black-calf leather shoe (with a tuxedo), and a three-eyelet derby shoe. Outside of the tuxedo — where black shoes are essentially one of the only steadfast rules in men’s style — the styling with the other two situations is key to keep in mind. Suits might not be part of your everyday wear, but when wearing something flashier (like Daniel Craig’s slim Tom Ford suits in James Bond), a black shoe is the ideal way to take things down a notch in terms of footwear — if the suit fits like a million bucks, the shoes shouldn’t necessarily draw attention away from it.

From the personal wardrobe — Calvin Klein black dress boots, snagged on eBay early last summer.

From the personal wardrobe — Calvin Klein black dress boots, snagged on eBay early last summer.

However, there are other great ways to work in black dress shoes for daily wear. Especially in the winter, a chukka-style dress boot, like that worn by Bond, is well-suited for slicker terrain and probably looks more seasonally appropriate than something with a lower cut on the ankle. To get what you’re looking for, try eBay — the shoes pictured above were a great find at about $45 last summer. Because black dress boots (especially with open lacing) are both office-ready and black-tie approved, the right pair can be worn with chinos, a v-neck sweater and a crisp dress shirt, as well as a nice red-carpet suit. The one drawback to a black dress boot or shoe is that the shoe’s sharper look doesn’t lend itself as easily to pairing with jeans, for example. It might even look a bit out of place, so when going casual with dark denim, picking a brown desert boot is probably a safer bet.

When dressing up though, choosing to stick with something a little more unique than a plain black dress shoe — like wearing a chukka-style boot — is a nice personal style statement and a slight nod to a growing trend. The dress boot’s cut at the ankle is less ubiquitous than a plain black captoe, yet it doesn’t beg for attention like another pair of shoes might. Additionally, it’s a nice homage to classic style. Take a look, for example, at the slim navy suit and black dress shoe pairings of Sean Connery (again, turning to James Bond for style inspiration is an ideal move). Some say blue and black can’t work together, but what shoes might you wear with a midnight tuxedo? Across the next few months, look for the right shoe at the right price and when given the opportunity, bust out black shoes with a suit. It’s a look so sharp you won’t regret it.

Style Suggestion: The Chambray Shirt

It’s been a while since it got truly cold in most parts of this country, but that doesn’t mean we don’t all need a reminder on the certain types of textures and fabrics that just work well in the winter. The key here is to continue to look for items with a rougher texture, things that just seem to blend nicely with stark, cold landscapes.

In fact, the desire to change things up in terms of outfits and texture can be quite tempting this time of year, but there’s something to be said about doing what works, time and again. Filling this gap is, surprisingly (or not) where something like a chambray shirt comes in. It’s been written about and suggested on this site a good number of times, but with good reason. On a personal level, a chambray shirt in the rotation (as pictured below) is becoming a frequently worn item because of its versatility — they exist in that perfect space where they can be dressed up or down.

J. Crew's chambray shirt. Nice texture for winter, without a doubt.

J. Crew’s chambray shirt — dressy with a workwear feel.

Notably, chambray shirts are the perfect antidote to a look that might be too dressed up. In some cases, a crisp white shirt worn under a more casual, rumpled cardigan might just look too stark. Or with a more casual patch-pocket blazer, for example, the white shirt just might stand out a bit too much, even if it’s a white OCBD. Enter the chambray shirt. In a lighter shade like blue (like the J. Crew option pictured), it works in just as many different outfits as a blue Oxford cloth button-down might work. (See option #1 here for a reminder). If you’ve got a v-neck sweater under a navy blazer, throw a lighter chambray shirt in there to flip the look on its head. Wear it on its own under that same blazer, too.

Heck, GQ is even a proponent of wearing it under a suit (a bolder move, but one that definitely works). The texture of the shirt is the key here — it’s marled and weathered, and it’s got a great workwear feel to it. More importantly, it’s a item that’s trendy yet most likely won’t die out anytime soon — it’s become, in some ways, the modern-day version of the OCBD, as it exists in an older dimension with a workwear vibe and yet is cut slim for current times. It can be worn under layers in the cold, and it’s the perfect type of shirt to pair with a thicker-weight tie. A wool tie (or a knit tie) has more going on texturally than a silk tie, so the combination just works well together. Underneath the odd vest or a heavier blazer, (as seen in the photo below), the chambray shirt falls right in line with a lot of different textures going on.

The base layer on the top here is a nice chambray shirt.

The base layer on the top here is a nice chambray shirt.

For what it’s worth, many (including J. Crew’s head of menswear) count the chambray shirt as an essential, a highly versatile item that lends class and a rugged feel to any outfit — two things highly difficult to do at the same time. If you’re into it, it’s also got a very old-time Americana feel to it in terms of style — details like the tab collar option on the J. Crew shirt and the front-button pockets lend itself to that. Look for one cut slim and in a lighter color, and it might even continue to be worn into the spring and summer months. That’s the definition of versatile style right there.

Starter Style Review: Express

Editor’s note: Building great style on a budget can be difficult and expensive. This is the fourth part in an occasional series chronicling great locations to start a wardrobe and buy affordable, good-looking style staples. Catch the first, second and third parts in the series here . Look for more in the coming weeks!

There are a couple things pretty apparent upon first entering Express. First: It’s bright. Everything from the clothes themselves to that lighting to the bright red 40% sale signs. And it’s kind of loud. The music is often a mix of strange techno-electronic beats, which makes for one interesting shopping experience.

And there it is. That notorious lion logo.

There it is. That notorious lion logo.

And if that wasn’t enough, there’s that lion logo. That thing is everywhere — on T-shirts, sweaters, sweatshirts, polos, jackets, graphic tees —you name it, that logo’s on it. Since many are now heading in the anti-logo direction, that’s a definite hit against the clothing. Granted, it could be layered over if it’s on a T-shirt, but not so with a sweater. There’s a few stacks of shirts and sweaters without that logo, but a good chunk of the clothing is emblazoned with that large lion. Even items that would be perfectly good on their own seem to have it.

So that’s upon entering the store. When digging around, there are actually some alright finds. The Photographer chino (as pictured below) fits about like a Dockers Alpha Khaki (although it’s more expensive). But in a light khaki shade, a grey and even a darker amber color, it’s a good buy. Generally, anything without a logo is actually quite solid in terms of fit and quality. Outerwear looks to be a good buy from here, as the pieces are often cut slim and in neutral colors.

Actually a decent buy at the right price.

A decent buy at the right price.

The store’s suit separates actually aren’t half-bad either — the trick would be to catch them on a sale. And since suit separates are becoming more ubiquitous this year, it’s a good idea to get into that market at a lower price. The color selection is surprisingly nice, with a few patterns thrown in there, too. The quality and construction isn’t up there with anything from a nicer department store, but in some solid shades (like navy or charcoal), a blazer or pants could be a good buy when on sale. The dressier department is also where the pitfalls keep popping up, unfortunately.

A light shade of khaki that wouldn't look out of place in the summer.

A light shade of khaki that wouldn’t look out of place in the summer.

Certainly most of us remember (and probably wore) the middle school or high school dance-esque bright solid shirt and bold patterned tie combo. It’s not inherently bad, but if it’s ill-fitting (likely the case), it’s a recipe for disaster. In the dress shirt area, that’s what Express seems to specialize in. Granted, the fit of the Express 1MX shirt is a personal favorite, but only makes a ton of fashion sense with a white or light blue shade – not highlighter yellow, bright purple or dark maroon.

Lots of silk ties, not a lot of winter-weight texture.

Lots of silk ties, not a lot of winter-weight texture.

The ties themselves actually have some half-decent patterns to them, but again, harken back to the solid shirt-patterned tie combo. And the lack of winter-weight fabrics or knit ties (at least on the shelves in this store) is somewhat disconcerting.

Other dress shirts are hit or miss, as well. A green checked shirt hanging on one of the racks wouldn’t look out of place under a khaki summer suit with a grey knit tie, but then there are anomalies like an odd shirt fading from one color into another (see below). There was also what looked to be a newer ‘soft wash’ shirt (the phrase on the tag), which felt much more forgiving to the touch than a starchy, bright dress shirt.

This shirt seems to be a miss.

This shirt seems to be a miss.

Neutral basics like crew neck and v-neck tees, along with briefs and boxers, are available in typically bright shades but also dark solid colors — while a bit overpriced, these are likely a decent purchase. Patterned socks from Express are actually a personal favorite, but like much of the rest of the store, wait until a sale to snag two or three pairs at once.

Jeans are another area where Express seems to have some misses. Although they introduced the ‘super skinny’ Alec jean last year, the store still offers (and tries to push, no less) bootcut jeans (for more than $60 on-sale, more than $100 full price). Dark blue denim, free of distressing, is in short supply here, unfortunately.

Accessories from Express (like a belt or a watch) could work on a budget — a reversible leather belt takes care of 2 things at once, for example — but there are certainly better (and less pricier) places to go than Express for, say, a good watch.

The ultimate takeaway from the store would be this: stay away (if it’s your preference) from those large, garish lion logos. Look for solid basics including outerwear and slim suit separates, but steer clear of those neon dress shirts and patterned ties. Keep an eye out for solid buys like crew neck or v-neck tees or a collared shirt with a colorful, understated pattern. Buy on-sale and in pairs with most items like briefs or socks. And maybe pick up some chinos if needed. Again (and this is important) watch out for those lions. Happy shopping!

Starter Style Review: Target

Editor’s note: Building great style on a budget can be difficult and expensive. This is the first part in an occasional series chronicling great locations to start a wardrobe and buy affordable, good-looking style staples. Look for more in the coming weeks! 

Bullseye. Starting things off with Target. Yep, Target.

Bullseye. Starting things off with Target. Yep, Target.

Putting together a great wardrobe can seem a daunting task at first. Starting from the ground up, particularly trying to build in style essentials on a budge, is also taxing to a certain degree. But thanks to the explosion of an interest in men’s fashion, plenty of stores are now carrying more style staples than ever before — and at great prices.

In fact, when style inspiration comes from so many places (including affordable brands like Old Navy and Uniqlo), it can actually be tough and tiring getting bogged down in a long list of locations. That’s why it’s wise to keep certain stores from slipping under the radar. Chains with surprising names are increasingly stocking everything you could need to build some a basic wardrobe, including Target, however unlikely it might seem (witness Target’s collaboration with noted designer Phillip Lim this past fall).

A look at some of Target's shirt selection.

A look at some of Target’s shirt selection.

Target’s Merona line offers fantastic men’s style items, including, at varying times, a nice selection of blazers.  A recent trip through a Super Target revealed just as much. Keep in mind that Super Target is larger than the typical Target store, of course, but just as many style essentials were on-hand.  In addition to the Merona line, the rest of the men’s section was well-stocked with Mossimo polos in a variety of colors, v-neck and crewneck t-shirts with stripes, patterns and bright solid colors, and some shorts with interesting patterns for spring and summer.

Shelves were also stocked with short-sleeve and long-sleeve henleys, two pieces that can become layering staples year round. There was also a nice selection of corduroys in seasonally appropriate shades (as seen below), and slim-fit jeans from Denizen, a branch of Levi’s. The store’s Merona Oxford cloth button-downs are a particular personal favorite, and at a nice price point, too. For under 25 bucks a pop, it’s tough to turn down an item that can pair with so many different outfits.

A rich shade of orange in a seasonal corduroy.

A rich shade of orange in a seasonal corduroy.

Along with some style staples, the store also offered pieces with a slightly trendier take (like the sweater below). An item like that isn’t for everyone, but through collaborations with designers like Phillip Lim, the chain is offering affordable pieces with a more fashionable bent that could be worth taking a risk on if you fancy changing things up. In addition to those trendier pieces, the store’s shoe collection is also solid, featuring some solid desert boot-type silhouettes, along with loafers and dress shoes.

Classic crewneck sweater with a trendy pattern.

Classic crewneck sweater with a trendy pattern.

Accessories are a high point, too. Things like socks (in mainly solid colors, but with some wild patterns) can also be had at low prices, as can, for example, undershirts. Notably, Target offers one of the better deals on the versatile, casual and ultra-affordable Timex Weekender and Timex Easy Reader, two watches that, when paired with the right outfits, are as versatile as any below $100.

In addition to these items, there are certainly some hidden gems waiting to be uncovered in Target’s shelves, all at great prices most likely. When stores like Target do something as unexpected as men’s style in such a surprisingly good fashion, it’s definitely worth checking out. Keep that in mind as you browse the shelves for groceries on your next trip to the bullseye.

Product Review: Stuhrling Aquadiver ‘Manta Ray’ Watch

With smartphones so ubiquitous nowadays, many question the necessity of wearing a watch to begin with. However, in the right setting and in the right style, a watch can function like any other part of an outfit — a finishing touch that sets the tone for an outfit, or a standout accessory in its own right. Building a basic, essential watch collection can be tricky, especially when so many expensive models are out there.  And there are certain types of watches that definitely fit in different situations, making things even slightly more confusing.

While a great dive watch is exceptionally versatile — wearable with jeans and a t-shirt as well as a suit when styled right — it’s always nice to give your timepieces a break. And, shaking things up on the wrist is as beneficial a style move as rotating shoes or other items of clothing.  That’s where a great rubber strap watch can come into play. But not the sporty, digital iterations worn to run races or anything like that. Think of the right rubber-strap watch as another casual watch to wear with simpler outfits, like the Timex Weekender (seen here as part of a Budget Style Guide).

The Stuhrling Aquadiver Manta Ray watch. Perfect for soaking up some, uh, rays.

The Stuhrling Aquadiver Manta Ray watch. Perfect for soaking up some, uh, rays.

That’s why this past Christmas, I was pretty pleased when Santa showed up under the tree with the Stuhrling Aquadiver Manta Ray watch. Now, the title on the Amazon link is quite a mouthful, but within just two days of wearing this timepiece, it’s clear that it’s quite the watch.

Yes, the watch is a quartz, meaning the battery will eventually have to be replaced. Although there’s quite the debate about quartz watches versus automatic varieties, the important thing about this timepiece is that it, well, tells time and runs well regardless.

Pure function aside, the great thing about this piece is its versatility. It would work in exactly the same scenarios as a Timex Weekender —for example, with an Oxford cloth button-down, sweater and jeans (as paired with on Christmas in cold New Hampshire) or with a polo and shorts (as worn in Florida during part 2 of a vacation trip). The color of the dial is a cool black with white symbols along the outer ring — no outlandish dial or strap here. And because of that rubber strap, there’s a durability aspect that a stainless steel watch doesn’t bring all the time — you needn’t worry about serious scratches or major damage all the time with this watch. Additionally, because the rubber strap is more casual than even a stainless steel strap, you don’t have to worry about matching the strap color with your belt all the time (honestly! Look closely here for an example).

The Stuhrling watch in action. Note the contrast on the bezel.

The Stuhrling watch in action. Note the contrast on the bezel.

The watch’s bezel actually works, as it rotates. The contrast between the numbering on that outer ring (as seen below) is a nice visual touch, as well. The stainless steel case is 42 millimeters in diameter, and it wears about that size — not overwhelmingly large, but slightly bigger than the average watch. It’s waterproof to 300 meters, making it very suitable for actual diving, and the watch feels sturdy overall. The screw down crown feels durable, too.

The area where the rubber straps attach to the watch case itself also feels sturdy — there’s a reinforcement aspect to those pressure points that’s reassuring if this watch is going to see some serious work. Most importantly, this watch (at least according to its Amazon page) is a serious, serious bargain when bought at the right time. It really embodies what great style should be about — it’s versatile, durable, well-built and extremely affordable. Not a bad job by Santa this year, in short.

If you’ve had any experience with Stuhrling watches in the past, leave it in the comments!