September 2, 2015 by Beau H.

Brand Profile: Ace Rivington

Editor’s note: For a wide array of brand profiles covering companies big and small, click here.

Aviation, as you might guess, figures strongly into the backstory of this brand. Photo courtesy of Ace Rivington.

At a special media preview sponsored by ethical lifestyle brand Apolis earlier this summer, I ran into a situation that rarely, if ever, happens. I was chatting briefly with Apolis co-founder Raan Parton when he introduced his companion — another Beau, in fact. It just happened to be Beau Lawrence, founder of up-and-coming menswear brand Ace Rivington. What he had to say about his brand and the backstory behind it immediately caught my attention, and discerning consumers would do wise to listen up, too.

The sweater that started it all –a colorblocked crewneck made out of high-quality fabric. Photo courtesy of Ace Rivington.

Ace Rivington first made a name for itself with a wildly successful Kickstarter (to the tune of $60,990 raised) for its Homespun Sweatshirt, a crisp upgrade to the once-casual crewneck sweater. The fact that the crewneck sweater is now an accepted menswear staple definitely contributed to the brand’s initial success, but in the time since then, they’ve moved beyond just sweatshirts. That staple item was borne out of a simple set of perfect fabric, though. Once he’d found the right knit, Lawrence quit his job in November 2013 and got to work — bringing with him more than 18 years of experience in the denim industry. Add in the fact that the brand focuses on American manufacturing and you’ve got the makings of #menswear success.

A playful historical narrative accompanies many of the brand’s products. Photo courtesy of Ace Rivington.

What’s even more compelling about the brand is the playful, heritage-filled story woven into its products. Consumers can follow along with the daring Ace Rivington and his family through the brand’s blog. Ace is a fictional pilot who provides the sartorial inspiration for the brand’s rugged staples — and spirit of adventure. The concept is something that few, if any brands, have tried. Sure, plenty tie back to the ideals of heritage quality, history and pieces built for decades — but Ace Rivington is the only one that provides quite literally an inspired story to back it up. Some might find it too much, but the ways in which the product is designed and the creative is presented definitely help build the narrative into a cohesive brand identity.

American-made denim in a variety of washes rounds out the brand’s pants offering.

The company’s offerings are tight and controlled, particularly its shirting — five models are for sale on the site right now, including a Beach Washed Chambray option that would serve as a fine complement to the brand’s made-in-the-USA selvedge denim. That denim however, does run for a premium price — more than $200. Its chinos also venture into Bonobos-esque pricing territory ($89) but pack classic military styling inspiration into one pair. And while some are against the jogger trend entirely, Ace Rivington does indeed stock an aptly named pair — after having checked out a pair from the brand, the Layover Jogger (made out of a lightweight cotton weave) is actually the type of pant you’d want to be wearing if you found yourself stranded in an airport.

On the shirting front, it does appear as if the brand is planning a broader expansion come next spring, as they teased out a product shot of a neat-looking short-sleeve shirt on the company’s Instagram account recently.

Available in a plethora of colors, the brand’s crewneck sweaters helped Ace make his name. Photo courtesy of Ace Rivington.

The iconic sweater the brand launched with is also on the site in multiple colors, and colorblocked cuffs plus a ribbed collar help it stand out from your average crewneck. At a 90% cotton/10% polyester blend, it might not be the kind of sweater that shields you from an Arctic chill, but it would be the ideal layering piece for fall, particularly underneath a herringbone blazer. At $129 however, it’s again an investment to give some thought.

Ace Rivington sells, among other footwear offerings, some casual-rugged chukkas from SeaVees.

Ace Rivington’s outerwear selection is small but does feature a café racer jacket. Likewise, it keeps its footwear offerings on the small, yet classic, side as well. Two pairs of excellent Wolverine boots, a classic three-eye chukka from SeaVees and two pairs of utilitarian SeaVees sneakers round out the product focus.

The brand’s accessories add a dash of the unexpected to your everyday carry, including a branded Zippo lighter and aviation-themed playing cards that line right up with the brand’s aviation-minded backstory. As to be expected for a brand that built its foundation on a simple sweatshirt, its basics are similarly well-constructed. The brand was kind enough to send along a Home Washed Heathered Crewneck in Oatmeal, and it’s extremely soft with a slim yet comfortable fit — exactly how a T-shirt should feel.

Judging by the brand’s quick rise through Kickstarter, planned product upgrades in the coming seasons and compelling backstory, Ace Rivington seems like the type of brand that can definitely strike a chord with customers looking for crisp basics that incorporate just-different-enough touches and reliable quality. And if you happen to be an aviation enthusiast, there’s perhaps no better brand out there.

Have you bought any product from Ace Rivington? What’s your favorite item from the brand’s site?

August 17, 2015August 17, 2015 by Beau H.

Brand Profile: Goorin Brothers

More than 100 years and still going strong — excellent heritage hatmaker Goorin Brothers.

Editor’s note: For more brand profiles covering the world of men’s grooming, accessories and apparel, click here.

Like lots of things in the men’s style world, hats can actually be pretty divisive. I mean, it’s just a hat, right? Wrong. Ballcaps strike some as too casual or college-esque, while traditional hat styles – like bowlers or wide-brimmed fedoras – also draw ire. So some folks simply won’t get on board. It seems on the one hand though that throwing on a statement hat is something lots of menswear bloggers have turned to in the past few years as part of the burgeoning street style trend. That’s had a slow trickle-down effect into the rest of the population, to the benefit of heritage brands who’ve produced traditional styles for decades. Heck, just look at any postgame sports press conference and you’re likely to find a hat or two – whether well-done or not.

More than a century’s worth of experience in the biz — Alfred and Ted Goorin took over the business from father Cassel, hence the name you see today. Photo courtesy of Goorin Brothers.

For those looking to get into the hat game without too much pretention or fanfare, Goorin Brothers is an excellent option. They’ve harnessed their collective years of experience into producing of-the-moment hats that still nod to traditional styles and construction methods, much like their significantly younger and more casual contemporaries at Ebbets Field Flannels, among others. And they’ve done so in a way that’s rooted in quality and attention to detail. When you do one thing so well, that’s likely to draw attention – in a good way. The business has been passed down through the family for more than a century, something that it seems happens less and less these days (to put it mildly). The styles and shapes have expanded across the years, but that same attention to quality remains — with a modern update. The brand is bringing back the idea of the neighborhood hat shop, too — they’ve got 36 shops across the country and counting (including four in NYC alone).

An crisp-casual way to wear a vintage ball cap. Unconstructed blazer by J. Crew. Heathered burgundy pocket tee by Steven Alan. Slim khaki chinos by Taylor Stitch. Chukka boots by Timberland. Glasses by Warby Parker. Classic Bristol leather watch by Daniel Wellington.

The brand’s expertise extends across nearly every style imaginable, from ball caps and flatcaps to those aforementioned bowlers and tophats. I had the chance to work with the brand to test-drive one of its vintage ballcaps — the No. 42 ball cap seen here — during a trip to Michigan in late July, followed by a jetsetting trek to Greece thereafter. If you’re going to give a ball cap another try, this is the sort of hat you should reach for. Unlike sports or performance logo-heavy ball caps, which look too sporty to wear with even crisp-casual apparel (like slim khaki shorts and a polo), a Goorin Brothers cap fits right in just fine. (Of course, if you’re an avid golfer or sports nut going to a game, might still be best to reach for one of those). But this vintage-style cap in particular is one you can test-drive with sporty-casual outfits or with a short-sleeve shirt and chinos.

The No. 42 ball cap from Goorin Brothers. –a standout hat style with vintage details makes for a crisp complement to all kinds of outfits.

The lack of notable branding or logo placement on Goorin’s hats in general is a huge plus – the brand’s ball caps in particular have an old-school appeal that’s difficult to find in your average sporting goods store. That makes them look cool and complementary, rather than detracting from a polished look (i.e. the blazer-T-shirt-chinos ensemble seen in these photos). For those seeking a more standout cap, Goorin’s other retro hats, inspired by old military-branded hats, offer an alternative. Those might look more fitting at a fun barbeque or tailgate this fall.

A crisp hat like the one seen here from the brand is easily wearable in sportier situations, too. Sweatshorts by Pistol Lake. Pocket tee by American Apparel. Slim Mailbag by Satchel & Page. Sneakers by Athletic Propulsion Labs. Sunglasses by Randolph Engineering. Partial photobomb by a fellow tourist in Greece.

And particularly when it gets chilly, an eyecatching hat in a cold-weather fabric certainly has its appeal, as does a warm-weather Panama hat. On that note, Dan from Articles of Style nails these sorts of looks. Now, a cold-weather hat does lack that crucial ear coverage in a snowstorm, to be sure. But, the combination of an old-school hat plus some tailored wear does look pretty darn sharp. Decades past certainly nailed that style, but it’s one that’s largely fallen out of favor or has been done mostly “wrong” in recent years (sorry, Johnny Depp). Now though, it’s poised to make a nice resurgence thanks to the lack of ostentation or “look-at-me” flair from Goorin Brothers – these are hats that are well-made and mesh with a variety of looks.

The lack of ostentatious details makes it easy to pair a vintage ball cap with classic Aviator shades — like these ones from Randolph Engineering.

Goorin’s pricing meets the needs of those looking to dip their toes into the world of hats, as well. Ball caps come in at under $40, namely. The brand’s “dressier” or more traditional hats do range in from price from about $70 to $200 though — making this the sort of splurge purchase that you’d have to wear a lot to justify. However, I’ve found my ballcap to be comfortable, breathable and wearable in the heat from Michigan to NYC to Greece – and it should work just as well in the fall and winter months.

Ultimately, a hat of any sort is going to be the type of accessory that might break an outfit – but it can also make an outfit if worn in the right setting, at the right time and with the right accessories. Again, this is all subjective though – so if the hat fits (and you like it)… wear it!

Are you on-board the ballcap bandwagon? Do you own or have you considered any of the aforementioned hat styles?

May 6, 2015May 12, 2015 by Beau H.

Brand Profile: Jack + Mulligan

The Newton Weekender from Jack + Mulligan — made right and made in the USA. Photo courtesy of Jack + Mulligan.

Editor’s note: The following profile features quotes and photos provided by the brand. No compensation was offered in exchange for this post. To check out other brand profiles, head here.

Spring and summer travel season is quickly approaching (or has already started for some of us), and if you’re hitting the road anytime soon, you undoubtedly need a stylish weekender bag (among other grooming accessories) to be travel-ready. That’s where Jack + Mulligan can absolutely help you out. You might recognize the name from an Esquire piece that ran last year, but they’re absolutely a brand worth getting to know more. The brand is selling at a number of stores in the U.S. and also through a few international accounts — I actually came across them a few weekends ago at The Lodge in NYC.

Founder Colin Gray launched the company a few years ago after working across the fashion industry in retail & magazines (among other stops) and later making small runs of leather goods to give to his friends. Along the way, he struggled to find a bag polished enough for the office but durable and well-suited for weekened trips — leading to a small collection of bags made and distributed to friends and family, and eventually, the creation of Jack + Mulligan; the brand’s name comes from Gray’s first dog, an Irish Water Spaniel named Mulligan, and three Jack Russell Terriers Gray had thereafter. Now, the company employs what you might call a tightly knit team of two full-time employees and a handful of part-timers. That hasn’t hampered their attention to detail, though.

One of the company’s knapsacks in action. Photo courtesy of Jack + Mulligan.

“Early on, I chose to hone in on those small details that I obsess over,” he said via email. “The fabrication, zippers, pockets, stitching and overall quality (of the bags). From the start, I focused on the details.” Gray was also focusd on making pieces that would stand the test of time in both style and durability.

“I remember the first time I saw someone on the street using one of our bags in Manhattan,” he said. “That was a great feeling.”

A twill briefcase in midnight and a line of dopp kits are also part of the brand’s offerings. Available at http://www.jackandmulligan.com

The brand now has a sizable amount of product (some of which you can see above), ranging from a navy knapsack with fine leather detailing to a run of twill and waxed canvas duffels (like this particularly nice olive duffel). The company is perhaps best well-known for its classic weekender bags, available in three colors and retailing for just under $300. For beach trips and the like, Jack + Mulligan’s tote bags would definitely be worth a look, as well. Perhaps their closest aesthetic competitor might be Herschel Supply Co. in terms of smaller bags, but J+M’s larger pieces are certainly on-par with brands like Navali and Everlane, construced from sturdy twills and featuring leather reinforced handles and zipper pulls.

The Kennedy Duffel in Olive. Grab and go to the gym or the beach. Photo courtesy of Jack + Mulligan.

The brand’s varied offerings really complement an overall lifestyle, Gray said, while also noting that higher-quality accessories are a reflection of a growing interest in men’s fashion overall.

“Guys are having more fun with getting dressed and interested in finding their personal style,” he said. “It’s cool that guys seem to care more about where and how a product is made. An increasing number of people I speak to are becoming educated about fabrics and construction, which is interesting.”

The eyecatching Thompson Tote. Photo courtesy of Jack + Mulligan.

That growing lifestyle interest is also reflected in the home goods the brand produces, like passport wallets and luggage tags. Jack + Mulligan’s water-repellent twill dopp kits also bring a unique combination of rugged style and function. And the brand has plans for the future, too — tapping into a growing customer base and exploring collaborations are both ongoing pursuits for the company, Gray said.

Jack + Mulligan partnered with shaving & grooming gurus Harry’s last year, and future collabs with like-minded brands are in the works — as are new category offerings, Gray notes.

While there are difficulties inherent in running a startup — especially building a brand from the ground up — Gray always tries to enjoy what he does.

“The whole thing is very challenging,” he said. “The most fun for me is the product, being able to take an idea and see it come to fruition.”

Tell me: Have you bought anything from Jack + Mulligan? What’s your favorite product from the site?

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Brand Profile: Ace Rivington

Brand Profile: Goorin Brothers

Brand Profile: Jack + Mulligan