Style Q+A: Buck Mason

Editor’s note: For more in our Style Q+A series, click here. The following post is not sponsored in any way by Buck Mason, although affiliate banners may appear in other select posts.

An American lifestyle brand that's, well, inspired by and built in America. Photo courtesy of Buck Mason.

An American lifestyle brand that’s, well, inspired by and built in America. Photo courtesy of Buck Mason.

There are some brands that do one thing, and do it so well, that you can’t help but appreciate them. For yours truly over here, that’s been the case with Buck Mason, purveyors of, among other great #menswear, possibly the best T-shirt on the market. That’s certainly saying something, but it’s the approach and the end result that makes them a brand worth knowing — that goes for other classic style staples they produce, like sturdy raw indigo denim, essential chambray shirting, cotton linen shorts and critically, Buck Mason’s famous slim chinos. Across the board, the attention to detail that goes into something as seemingly simple as one of the brand’s slim slub tees is pretty remarkable, right down to details like the curved hem and the textured fabric. It’s that approach that’s won over your humble author, as I’ve followed the brand for a few years now and covered their essential tees for The Manual. It makes sense that with such a reliable, classic and well-made product assortment, they were bound to be a Style Guide favorite. And learning more about the brand only reinforces that notion. Co-founders Sasha Koehn and Erik Schnakenberg were kind enough to answer some essential questions about the brand for this site’s ongoing Style Q+A series , which delves into the minds of Style Guide friends like Megan Collins of Style Girlfriend and Barron Cuadro of Effortless Gent. So sit back, read on and perhaps swing over to the Buck Mason site to shop more great menswear.

The Style Guide: Take me into the background of Buck Mason and the “A-ha” moment that launched the brand and the brand’s ideals?

Sasha Koehn: A few years back, I was visiting my family in Cleveland when I stumbled upon these old, abandoned factories, and it dawned on me how few American companies actually make stuff here. I looked into it, and discovered that 97% of the clothing purchased in America is made overseas and that almost all of it is sold at a retail mark up of over 600%. That was really my call to action, and I knew I could build something around that.

Erik Schakenberg: At the same time, we didn’t want to be putting more filler out into the world. We wanted to create a brand that manufactures domestically, but that also produces value; garments that are timeless, and mean something.

SK: We wanted to simplify the male wardrobe to a clean, effortless style that we felt could stand the test of time. Our designs are derived from classic American staples that men feel comfortable in.

ES: We thought, “Let’s make high quality, affordable goods, and let’s make them here.” Because Sasha and I were both coming at this from a more creative – possibly even idealistic ­- place, the usual roadblocks like margin didn’t apply. The bottom line was irrelevant, we just decided we were going to do it and make it work. Sometimes not knowing exactly what you’re getting into allows you to see things a little differently, and to go down paths everyone else thinks are dead ends.

Once we figured out the concept, we shifted to thinking about the execution. How can we make our products accessible, while still taking care of the people who make them? We decided on a consumer direct model­ instead of wholesaling our products to a traditional retailer, who would have to mark them up in order to make a profit, we sell directly to the customers ourselves. This way we can keep the prices low, while still paying everyone in our supply chain a fair wage.

TSG: The brand’s product categories have expanded over time, but take me into the process of starting out with basics like tees?

SK: If we had a motto, it would be design through reduction, which is completely unusual. My father’s a sculptor, works in stone, chips away at massive blocks; we’re doing the same thing. It’s subtractive, you take your raw material and you cut away the noise, the nonsense, the excess, until you’re left with something simple and refined and perfect. We aggregate, and subtract, and what’s left? The cut, the fabric, and the construction.

Distillation, that’s how you make the best t­shirts, jeans, button­-ups and chinos in the world.

SK: Whether you’re shopping online, going to the mall, or at a department store, there is a good chance you are sifting and sorting through hundreds of irrelevant styles, colors, and patterns before you actually find what you want.

ES: We don’t focus much on fashion or the pantone color of the month, and trend forecasting isn’t really our thing. We take the staples, your oxford, chino, jean and tee, and we strip it. No unnecessary branding, no filler. Then we rebuild it with incredible fabrics in cuts and colors guys look great in. The classics made better than the classics, that’s what we do.

SK: We want to completely reduce the overwhelming shopping experience. There’s so much detritus, so much junk out there ­ culling the line was essential. We really try to stick to what we’re good at, and what our guy needs. It harkens back to that subtractive approach. Our stuff is so pared down and smart, you’d be hard pressed to put together an outfit that looked bad. Seriously.

Just a plain T-shirt? Think again -- made in America construction, slubby fabric and small style details make this one a big-time winner. Photo courtesy of Buck Mason.

Just a plain T-shirt? Think again — made in America construction, slubby fabric and small style details make this one a big-time winner. Photo courtesy of Buck Mason.

TSG: What would you say sets Buck Mason T-shirts apart from others on the market?

ES: There’s been an incredible reaction to Buck Mason tees. Thousands of customers have waited months on a waiting list for us to restock our signature shirttail hem t­-shirt. One reason it’s such a hit is the rounded hem in the back hides a little extra weight if you happen to carry it. It’s a $60 by any other brand. … Affordable pricing allows us to serve more customers, and not be limited to a small demographic like most of our peers in the luxury space.

SK: We’ve totally bypassed the archaic wholesale model by selling directly to consumers online, and through our brick-and-mortar shops in Venice and Silver Lake. That way, we can offer well-­crafted garments at competitive prices, with the added benefit of stateside job growth.

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TSG: What are some styling tips you would give the guy who wants to try out one of your tees but isn’t sure how to wear it?

SK: Our collection is really for everyone. Our stuff is so understated that there’s room for interpretation. It’s clothing as a vessel, the guy is what’s important. It’s not about the label, it’s about fit, and fabric and construction. If you appreciate that, you’re our guy.

ES: There is a group of men who want to look great but don’t necessarily care about fashion or trends. They want to invest the least amount of time possible to achieve a sophisticated, cool style. We don’t only design for that guy, but we always consider him, since he really stands for what Sasha and I are all about.

SK:  Aren’t the best-dressed people always the one’s who look like they aren’t trying? That’s what we offer; a line that you can mix and match with stuff you already have, or with our stuff, and you’ll look terrific. It’s about crafting clothes that’ll look great in ten, twenty, thirty years. And with our quality, it’s going to.

TSG: Are there other product categories in which the brand might expand in the future?

ES: We’re going to be releasing our first outerwear piece in the fall: the perfect leather Motorcycle jacket. We don’t want to give too much away – but believe us when we tell you it’s going to be one of the best-made, best-fitting, and best-priced moto jackets out there.

TSG: Is there anything else exciting in the works for the brand?

SK: We just finished converting a full-size 1997 GMC Bluebird school bus into a mobile Buck Mason store. We rebuilt it from the wheels up, and the aesthetic matches that of our retail shops and website – a white, clean, minimal interior filled with textures and elements that embody Buck Mason. When you enter it, you get a sense of who we are right away, and it’s a fun and unique way for customers to shop our product, and much more engaging than the traditional brick and mortar retail experience. And, eventually, we’re actually going to be taking it out on the road. Customers outside of LA don’t get to go hands-on with our stuff, so we’re really looking forward to bringing our American-made products to America. Plus, who doesn’t love a good road trip?

To keep up with the goings-on over at the brand’s HQ, follow Buck Mason on Instagram or Twitter. To keep up with the fella writing this post, hit the ‘Follow’ button on IG.

Florsheim

Huckberry

#OOTD: How to Style Twill Pants with Savane

Editor’s note: The following post is brought to you by Savane. The Style Guide only works with and/or promotes brands and products used and enjoyed by its author.

Stepping out on a busy day with the Premium Flex Twill Pant from Savane. Trucker Jacket by JackThreads. Slim chambray shirt by Old Navy. Brown Scout Chukka Boots by Thursday Boots. Waterbury Chrono from the Timex x Red Wing Heritage collab.

Stepping out on a busy day with the Premium Flex Twill Pant from Savane. Trucker Jacket by JackThreads. Slim chambray shirt by Old Navy. Brown Scout Chukka Boots by Thursday Boots. Waterbury Chrono from the Timex x Red Wing Heritage collab.

Today’s #OOTD post is switching things up from the norm — and in this case, that’s a very good thing. Perhaps in your daily life, you find yourself on the go a lot — be it work, play or travel. That’s the case for myself as well, as  I’ve been traveling quite a bit this summer between busy days in NYC (we’re talking days at the office followed by trips around the country, including a Memorial Day weekend upstate ). So when Savane approached me as part of my writing for the Men’s Health MVP Network , I knew the brand’s twill pants were worth checking out as part of my active, everyday life . If you’re unfamiliar with Savane, they offer up everything from suit separates to dress shirts to the twill pants you see here (and you can find them everywhere from Amazon to JCPenney ). It’s around-the-clock wear that works particularly well to hit the office, have lunch in the park and head out to a networking event thereafter.

Take twill chinos from Savane, add American Trench striped socks, leather chukka boots from Thursday Boots, and a tough leather watch from the Timex x Red Wing collab.

Grab a sharp brown leather messenger bag then take twill chinos from Savane, add American Trench striped socks, leather chukka boots from Thursday Boots, and a tough leather watch from the Timex x Red Wing collab — you’re set for work &  play.

Given the need to dress in versatile style to transition from setting to setting, I rocked the brand’s Premium Flex Twill Pant in Ermine. They’re a reliably classic pair of pants that paired up nicely with my classic Old Navy blue chambray shirt and other personal favorites, like my durable Thursday Boots Brown Scout Chukka Boots and some stylish and continental Sunday Somewhere sunglasses. To finish the look off, I grabbed my durable leather watch from the Timex x Red Wing collab — all of the above are pieces that work seamlessly together for work or play. Of course, complementing those pieces with other sharp accessories, like a striped webbed J. Crew Factory belt, was essential, too.  However, the anchor of the whole outfit were the  comfortable and sharp Premium Flex Twill Pants. They’re tailored in a straight-tapered cut but offer room to move around in, a great thing for all you active fellas out there. And they worked seamlessly to take me from the office to a networking event later that night. They could even be styled in a manner similar to this #OOTD (that is, with a chambray blazer and sneakers). During both hot and cold days to come around NYC, I’m sure they’ll work just as well. For more on Savane, head here, and swing on through The Style Guide tomorrow for a look at the best men’s dive watches to buy right now.
Until then — stay stylish,
-Beau

Buck Mason - Timeless Design. Made in America.

#OOTD: How to Wear a Short-Sleeve Shirt for Summer

Editor’s note: You’ve surely seen this hashtag lots of different places, including on Instagram. But how does that carry over to real life? The #OOTD series will take one great item and put together a versatile, stylish outfit around it. Look for past features here.

If you’ve been keeping up with the #OOTD series here on The Style Guide, you’ll notice we’ve covered a heck of a lot of ground. But with warm weather heating up, we haven’t quite covered how to wear a short-sleeve shirt for summer. Now if you scroll ahead, you might notice this look is a bit layered up for summer. But if it goes get too hot, the jacket can always be ditched. Back to the matter at hand. A crisp short-sleeve shirt — not one that calls to mind Dwight Schrute, mind you — can be styled exactly like you might style a polo or a classic blue Oxford. So you’ll need to look for one that’s cut slim and modern, in a summer-appropriate color and/or pattern (this Bonobos Riviera Oxford is an ideal example of what we’re looking for). And given hot summer temps for most of us, short sleeves are going to be a nice substitute for, well, longer sleeves. A slim short-sleeve shirt can even be called into action under a blazer — it’s a secret warm-weather style move designed to keep you cool. But the below look aims for versatile style that looks a bit rugged, a bit polished and a whole lot of good. If you’re down with that, read on. For tips on how to style short-sleeve shirts for summer, hit me up on Instagram in the meantime.

Pairing a surefire short-sleeve shirt with a mix of style essentials.

Pairing a surefire short-sleeve shirt with a mix of style essentials.

The Shirt: JACHS NY Cream and Blue Horizontal Striped Short-sleeve Shirt, $89: JACHS NY produces style staples that are at once a bit prep-inspired and continental in nature, and this shirt is a fine example. It’s the perfect length untucked, and would look great with denim or shorts in other ensembles.

The Jacket: JackThreads Trucker Jacket in Seeded Natural, $79: Why, you might ask, does a denim jacket feature in this photo if it’s hot out? Well, it’s there to transition from day to night, and the excellent Natural color provides a great style swerve from a classic denim jacket.

The Pants: Buck Mason Iron Chinos, $135: Just like the Buck Mason Sand Chinos featured on this site earlier this spring, these Iron Chinos feature a modern cut, nice color and made-in-America construction.

The Loafers: Sebago Norwich Bison Penny Loafers, $165: These aren’t your average loafers, made with rich Horween Bison leather and designed to break in over time. Not quite too dressy, not quite too casual.

The Belt: J. Crew Factory Double-Striped Webbing Belt, $14.50: Worried about pairing two sets of stripes together? The scale of the belt, plus the nice off-white color, helps the belt stand out from the shirt itself.

The Socks: Mack Weldon No-show Socks, $16.50: For just over $16, you get not one, but two pairs of reliable, comfortable socks — crucial with loafers and rolled chinos.

The Wallet: Issara Minimalist Wallet, $69: Nearly $70 certainly is a lot for a card case, but when it’s crafted from rich navy leather and fits in the front pocket of your chinos (or slim blue denim, or a tailored suit), it’s worth the price.

If you don’t yet have a short-sleeve shirt or two in your closet, it’s a wise bet to pick up one that goes with quite a few ensembles — the striped blue-and-cream number above works with dark denim, slim light wash jeans, tan chinos or a stylish pair of chino shorts, along with all kinds of summer footwear picks. When you add in the fact that it looks great over top a pair of four-season chinos and some rugged loafers, it’s certainly a winning style move. Crisp, minimal accessories like a handmade lanyard and a reliable wallet certainly work well in nearly every style situation, too. If you’re hestitant to try one out, think of it like a slim summer polo, or even a classic chambray shirt, and go from there. Give me a shout on Twitter with style questions — come one, come all!

What’s your take on the above #OOTD? Would you change any pieces?
Florsheim

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Style Pick of the Week: Taylor Stitch Slim Chino in Light Stone

Editor’s note: Expect these posts weekly detailing one standout item coveted by yours truly. Sometimes, these fit within budgetary restrictions and other times, they’re expensive splurges worth saving for. For more Wish List items from Beau, head here, and to see other Style Picks, head here.

The perfect way to step into spring and summer -- with a crisp chino from Taylor Stitch.

The perfect way to step into spring and summer — with a crisp chino from Taylor Stitch.

With last week’s Style Pick of the Week, we covered a lightweight, casual layer — all in the name of moving a little toward spring. This week’s Style Pick continues to move things in that same direction, bit by bit. The fine folks at Taylor Stitch are a Style Guide favorite for an untold number of reasons. From its ridiculously high-quality and versatile Standard Issue Slim Chino to its drool-worthy Moto Jacket and  quick-selling pieces like its Blackwatch Yosemite Shirt, the brand does things the right way. That means plenty of heritage styling inspiration (plus modern fits), and tough construction that just won’t quit. That also means that some of its pieces are rightfully a bit pricey. But as far as spring style at a nice pricepoint goes, you just can’t beat the Slim Chino in Light Stone. It’s up for pre-funding right now on the Taylor Stitch Web site, so they’re set to ship in mid-May. However, I’d highly suggest you get on ’em now — namely because they’re available for $78 versus the full price of $98. Toss in a 20 percent discount for first-time email subscribers, and you’re looking at just over $60 for a highly versatile pair of chinos. If you’re intimidated by that color? Fear not — it’s still plenty versatile.

This offering represents a brand-new color for Taylor Stitch -- plenty wearable and warm weather-ready.

This offering represents a brand-new color for Taylor Stitch — plenty wearable and warm weather-ready.

Made from a 9.5oz. brushed Spanish twill in Spain and cut slim (although the more forgiving Democratic fit is also available), you should approach these chinos as you might a darker shade of khaki. That is to say, they can be mixed in with brown suede chukkas, a denim jacket and a chambray shirt for easygoing, spring-centric casual style. And that lighter color is also going to work nicely with shades of blue — everything from a heather navy polo  to a cashmere sweater for when it’s abit chillier. They can even ground a grey shawl-collar cardigan in the early fall, so they’re worth the investment. Don’t underestimate the power of pants this color to be worn in a more continental fashion, either — look to James Bond for an example. The smaller details are on-point, too — note the brand’s signature printed San Francisco map pocket liner on the interior of the pants. The inseam is cut long for some of us (36 inches, to be exact) so they might require some tailoring. But for the starter-level price of just under $80, they’re a great deal from a brand that knows how to deliver the goods, seemingly no matter the product. The most difficult part is going to be waiting until May for them to ship. Good things really do take time.

Would you pre-fund these Taylor Stitch chinos? How would you style them for spring and summer?

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Florsheim

The Product Review: Taylor Stitch Standard Issue Slim Chino

Pairing the Taylor Stitch Standard Issue Slim Chino with transitional travel gear. Heathered burgundy pocket tee by Steven Alan. Unconstructed blazer by J. Crew. Pocket square by Banana Republic. Vintage wool baseball cap by Goorin Brothers. Chukka boots by Timberland.

Pairing the Taylor Stitch Standard Issue Slim Chino with transitional travel gear in Italy. Heathered burgundy pocket tee by Steven Alan. Unconstructed blazer by J. Crew. Pocket square by Banana Republic. Vintage wool baseball cap by Goorin Brothers. Chukka boots by Timberland. Glasses by Warby Parker

There’s really no underestimating the power of a great basic in a guy’s wardrobe, whether it’s a pair of dark denim or a crisp Oxford cloth buttondown or a sturdy pair of boots. The khaki chino occupies that same space – it’s the ideal balance between dressy and casual, especially in the manner that current brands have been making them. That typically means a slimmer fit and the lack of pleats that characterized a lot of khakis in days past.

And if you’ve paid any attention to the rise in American-made goods these past few years in the #menswear world, you might’ve heard the name Taylor Stitch. The brand takes a two-pronged approach to distributing its clothing, using a mixture of customer-funded campaigns (similar to Gustin’s approach) and stocking year-round essentials one can pick up at any time. Its Standard Issue Slim Chino (newly restocked in sizes 28 to 36!) is one of those essentials, and for great reason.

Another way to style these chinos, also from my travels to Italy and Greece. Corona not included. White sneakers by GREATS Brand.

Another way to style these chinos, also from my travels to Italy and Greece. Corona not included. White sneakers by GREATS Brand.

Although the pant comes in Olive and Navy as well, the Khaki Slim Chino is as close to a perfect pair of pants as you can get. For those times when dark denim might not work, this pair acts as an ideal dressier stand-in – especially with a classic, unconstructed navy blazer as seen here. The great folks at the brand worked with me on a review of the chinos for GearHungry earlier this spring, and I’ve had the chance to test them out all through the summer – including on a lengthy trip to Greece.

While one could argue that a khaki chino is only part of a rotation of pants – and thus you could afford to skimp a little – this pair from Taylor Stitch makes the exact opposite case. That is, it’s so versatile and you should (presumably) get so much wear out of it that it absolutely pays to divvy up a little cash up front.

Namely, the fabric on these chinos is something else. It’s a soft, custom cotton blend chino that’s brushed for softness – something you can tell right out of the box. There’s no absurd stiffness to these, making them easy to wear right away. While some definitely prefer a heavier chino fabric (and some brands, like Gustin, make a living doing that), having a pair that feels broken-in is a big benefit.
Ben Sherman US
But, that broken-in feel doesn’t mean you’re getting a pair of sunfaded chinos that have also proven popular across the past few seasons. In fact, the color on these is even throughout – and has remained that way despite washing throughout the summer. And if anything, the fabric has gotten softer over time – making them even easier to wear. Note that the fabric certainly isn’t your average, flimsy-feeling pair from a cheaper retailer –- but it’s also not a true lightweight chino a la Bonobos.

Regardless, the versatility and durability is a huge selling point and makes it easier to wear them more frequently. Thankfully, these don’t need to be treated like raw denim, unwashed for months at a time.

Yet another situation in which these chinos do well -- business casual. Blazer by J. Crew. Heather Herringbone Shirt by Combat Gent. Pindot tie by Express. Loafers by G.H. Bass Horween leather watch strap by Form-Function-Form and Ameritus Sport watch by Timex. Belt by Target Merona.

Yet another situation in which these chinos do well — business casual. Blazer by J. Crew. Heather Herringbone Shirt by Combat Gent. Pindot tie by Express. Loafers by G.H. Bass Horween leather watch strap by Form-Function-Form and Ameritus Sport watch by Timex. Belt by Target Merona.

And that’s lent itself to some nice outfit combinations across the summer. I’ve paired them with everything from a heathered burgundy pocket tee and navy sneakers (a favorite combo) to a blazer and chukka boots. Throwing them together with a slim chambray shirt and brown leather loafers has also worked well for dressier situations.
Ernest Alexander
The fit on these is also to be commended. If you’re unsure of trying out the brand, it’s worth nothing that these fit remarkably similar to any other mainstream (and arguably lower-quality) pair from one of an industry big shot. (looking at you J. Crew). So the fit is trim to be sure, but offers more give through the thigh than one might expect. It’s perhaps closest to a Levi’s 513, but the brand also offers a Democratic fit that’s slightly looser but still tailored.

Crucially, the waist band fits comfortably on a size 34×32 – it doesn’t bunch when worn with a belt, something that can occasionally be a problem. Watch out if you happen to be more vertically challenged though – the chinos arrive out of the box with a 36-inch inseam, meaning that I’ve chosen to cuff and roll them (as you can see in these photos). You could also take them to a tailor to have them hemmed if you know a particularly good one.

A closer look at the vintage map detailing and sturdy hardware that help set these chinos apart.

A closer look at the vintage map detailing and sturdy hardware that help set these chinos apart.

As to be expected with a pair of American-made chinos, the detailing is superb. Sturdy bar tack stitches hold the pockets in place on the interior of the chinos, while the front copper button is reinforced, too. Those who appreciate good design should also enjoy the vintage San Francisco maps printed on the interior of the pockets, and the tag noting it’s American-made is always nice to see.

With a pair of pants like these, it’s not a stretch to say you could put together five different outfits, each with a completely different vibe (that might sound familiar to those of you who read my Effortless Gent series!). From rugged long-sleeve henleys and cardigans in the winter to white sneakers and a simple T-shirt in the summer, this really is a four-season pair of pants (the fabric certainly lends itself to that). So the next time you look to buy a pair of chinos, look West – and get out that credit card.
Do you own a pair of Taylor Stitch chinos? Or will you soon? How would you style these?
Greats